【Day2】Shirahama to Nachi-Katsuura(F-5)⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ ‘23.24th,Feb

2023年3月5日

This route is in Area-F “Kinki". See Area-F map/ See Japan map

More info in strava

Sight & Entertainment ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Food & Drinks ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Easiness ⭐⭐

Road Conditions ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Safety ⭐⭐⭐

Though I could see stars in the sky last night, it was rainy in the morning as forecast told. The temperature was around 6-8 degree C. My hope was just to eat a famous tuna and drink sake at my goal. My journey was tough due to rain all the way but I ranked this route 5 stars. Because there were many spectacular sights along the route which would never make cyclists boring.

Within 10km after starting, I reached Shirahama beach which was a very popular resort beach in summer(pic.1). My pic is not so beautiful but the sand was clean white and the sea must be very clear.

And there are many resort hotels with hot spring. Even at the beach I found a spring(pic.2) with sulfur smell.

3. Sandanbeki

Next spot was Sandanbeki– cliff(pic.3), just 2km from the Shirahama beach. We can see the cliff from the observatory(pic.3) but I recommend to enter into the cave at \1,300-. The cave opens at AM8:00 and I entered at the same time. Getting on the elevator, go down 30m into the cave. The cave was used for parking ships by an ancient navy who helped the general of the time in 12th century. So there were buddhas in it and the route inside was intricate.

The waves seen at the sea level was overwhelming(pic.6,7).

After the cave, the road ran along the coast(pic.8). Sometimes I could see the odd shaped rocks in the sea which was made by upheaval of the coast(pic.9). The route was direct, so no need for searching a route which was comfortable.

But I thought there would not be any restaurants until 50km ahead. So I found a cafe and ate a yummy cream puff in Hiokigawa town(pic.10). It was a good choice since I didn’t find any after that.

After the cafe, many up & down started as normal rias coast forced me every time. Every 5km, I could see unusual shaped rocks in the sea which must be very beautiful if the weather is fine. But gradually the continuous rain deprived me of power as well as my bike’s breaking ability.

So it took time to reach a road side station for my lunch unexpectedly. Finally around PM1:00, I reached Kushimoto Kaichu Koen(Park). I found my clothing was already dripping wet and felt cold though I wore a rain coat. I ate Wakayama ramen, one of the famous soy sauce based ramen in Japan. I expected my body recovering soon but felt too much tired.

I did want to visit Shiono-misaki(cape), the southernmost point of Japanese main land but I had to make a decision whether to go there with additional 10km or to pass it toward the hotel directly. Physically it seemed too hard but I decided to take a nap there after wearing warmer clothing.

Maybe I was napping there for 30min and felt a little recovered. Though it was cold outside, I felt I could go to Shionomisaki. The rain was still dropping heavily and there was a hill climbing toward the cape, I could ride 10km to the southernmost point(pic.15).

Due to the rain, few tourists were there. If it’s a fine day, the scene must be very beautiful. Though time already passed PM3:00 and 40km remained yet, I had to a brief maintenance at pic.16 since the bike’s break almost worn out due to the continuous rain. I was scared for steep down-hill.

17. Hashigui-iwa(rocks) view

Even after coming back safely to R-42, there were many still up & downs made by rias coasts. Already I felt numb and didn’t want to think anything. But I was fascinated by a spectacle of many big comb shaped rocks(pic.17), Hashigui-iwa and took a pic.

Still 20km was remained and still up and downs continued even within 5km before the final destination, Nachi Katsuura city. I checked in the hotel in front of the station at PM5:30. After spraying the chain lub and packing my bike, I opened my belongings to dry them in my room, then soaked myself into the hot spring in the hotel.

18. Nachi Katsuura tuna(medium fatty- Chuutoro)

My top purpose of this trip was to eat tuna in this city. This city’s port is one of the most famous ports as the tuna landing. At PM6:30, I hurried up toward downtown to enter into a nice tavern. I could find only one Japanese tavern on the main street open. Some tourists were waiting for their turn but I also made a queue and finally got a seat at PM7:00.

Of course I ordered “Chuutoro" tuna and beer, and some other local raw fishes, as well as 2 glasses of Japanese Sake. All dishes were nice. My long dream came true. I was there till the tavern closed at PM10:00.

 Like most rural towns in Japan, the main street of this city was very quiet, which made me a little sad. I hope many tourists enjoy the taste of this wonderful port city. I found a foot hot spring at the fishing port side and dipped my tired feet in it for a while. The rain had already been up, so it was very silent night.

Next morning I left the city and went home. The weather was fine!! The express Nanki was comfortable train but it took 4hrs from Kii-Katsuura station to Nagoya.

<Transportation info>

My plan from Nachi Katsuura to Nagoya: Kii-Katsuura station AM8:55 JR express “Nanki" No.4 → Nagoya PM12:41 \7,330-

<Other recommendable spots near my route>

Phoenix fold

Nachi shrine & Nachi fall (ref. my route D-5)

Katsuura fishing port, (Other web site)

<Connection route>

F-4: Wakayama to Tanabe

D-5: Ise to Nachi