Mt.Hakkouda & Lake Towada cycling(B-10)⭐⭐⭐⭐’23.5th, 6th, Aug.
This route B-10 is in Area-B “Tohoku". See Area-B map/ See Japan map
【Day1】Shin-Aomori station to Mt.Hakkoda, Yachi hot spring
Sight & Entertainment ⭐⭐⭐
Foods & Drinks ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Easiness ⭐
Road condition ⭐⭐
Safety ⭐⭐⭐(~60km, R-4 was dangerous ⭐/After that ⭐⭐⭐⭐）
Though it was a very hot summer day, I wanted to complete my outward long journey from West edge point of JPN main island to North edge point, Aomori this year. So I booked a Shinkanse ticket and a secret hot spring guest house in a deep mountain of Aomori a week before.
I got on the 1st train, 6:00AM departure at Tokyo station and reached at AM9:40 at Shin-Aomori station(pic.1). It was already around 35C.
I cycled on the R-4, very busy national road toward East. After 20km, I reached Mutsu bay coast(pic.3), still on the R-4.
There were some odd shape islands near the coast and the Shimokita peninsula could be seen far away(pic.4), where I would try cycling in the future.
I abided eating anything until I reached Noheji town, in which fresh raw fish lunch could be eaten. There was 30km remained but I endured the heat and cycled innocently. Finally I reached the restaurant, Jouyatou-market at 12:15. It was a small road side station with a small eating space(pic.5) and I ordered a raw fish rice bawl. Of course, it was nice taste. Noheji thrived as a starting point of shipping to Edo(now Tokyo) city in the past, so it would be nice to hang out to find a historic site if you have time(pic.5).
I had to hurry toward my destination since I knew there would be a tough hill-climbing in the last section. I had to cycle further 20km on the R-4, which was very boring and tough due to relentless heat. So I couldn’t help but drop in a road side station just after 1hr cycling from lunch(pic.7).
Now it seemed to start hill climbing. Gradually the up hill slope started(pic.8) and finally reached the mountain road(pic.). But I could not have any room to take a pic during the real hill climbing since it was too tough for me after 70km cycling under the harsh weather condition. I often got off my bike and walked by pulling it for a few hundreds meters. Maybe totally I pulled it for 1km.
There was spring water, a stream coming out of the slope, so I showered from head. It cooled me a little at that time but soon after starting, the moisture tortured myself..
This picture(pic.10) was taken when I came to a short down hill section. Mt.Hakkoda could be seen very clearly. From this point, again there was a tough hill climbing until I reached the guest house. When I reached the guest house, it was PM4:00, completely exhausted.
The guest house, “Yachi-Onsen" is famous as one of the Japanese three major secret hot spring. As you can see in the web site(sorry only Japanese version can be available), the white spring healed the exhausted body. I seldom soak in the hot spring over twice but eventually I did 3 times in my staying here. I could understand why it was dabbed as one of 3 major hot spring.
But its building was very old, without cooler since this area is covered with snow in long winter season. So I wanted to open the window to take in cool air but many insects passed through the screen window. So I should bear relatively hot air in the night(pic.11).
Since there was not any other restaurants in this area, the dinner was served by the guest house and it was course menu. Those dishes like Salvelinus(pic.12), mushroom came from this local area, which were all delicious. I was so tired that I could drink just one local beer(Oirase beer) and one bottle(300ml) of local sake(Hakkouda) with the course.
There were foreign tourists near my table. Maybe this guest house and hot spring was famous among foreigners as well. Only myself seemed to come there by bicycle.
【Day2】Yachi hot spring to Lake Towada
Sight & Entertainment ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Food & Drinks ⭐⭐
Easiness ⭐⭐⭐
Road condition ⭐⭐⭐
Safety ⭐⭐⭐
Since I should catch AM11:47 train from Kazuno-hanawa station, I started at AM6:15(pic.13). So I should skip the breakfast, which was a mistake of my planning. The breakfast starts at AM7:00.
Soon the down hill started for 10km. According to Google map, there was no difference of height in this section but in reality, it was a very steep downhill. Soon I came to the Beech forest area(pic.15). It was very cool, comfortable area.
In the middle of the downhill, there was a famous marsh, Tsutanuma(pic.16~17). *Sorry I could not find a good English version web site of Tsutanuma, but you can feel the mysterious atmosphere of this marsh. This is very famous red leaf spot in Autumn. Since the lake surface is quiet in early morning or evening time, the clear symmetry of forests on the lake. The marsh is 10min walk from the entrance of promenade at Tsuta hot spring. Since it was very early, there were no other tourists at the marsh.
The autumn leaves season will be best but according to the website, a reservation is required to enter here since too many tourists visits. So pls ask tour agency if you want to go there in that season.
The promenade continues toward deep forests, so if you have time, you can enjoy over 1hr walking in the beech forest.
I didn’t much time, so I returned soon after watching the Tsutanuma marsh and resumed downhill. Still there was 5km downhill and finally I reached a bridge to cross the Oirase river, where many famous resort hotels stand.
From that point, a gentle uphill started along the mountain stream. This stream is famous as “Oirase mountain stream(gorge)". I now understand why it’s so popular. The air with water ion was very cool and fresh, the contrast of stream and color of leaves was very nice. I had a privilege to enjoy the air fully with my body instead of being inside a car. I found some rental cycling station at the beginning of the stream, so it would be nice to rent it and go toward Towada lake, 20km cycling.
The slope was not steep and it meanders along the stream. Sometimes I encountered water falls(pic.21).
After 12~13km uphill, I reached Towada lake(pic.22). The surface was quiet here as well. I cycled toward south. Gradually the temperature was going up and felt fatigue when there was no tree making shade. Now I was eager to eat something..
It was still 8:30AM, so all restaurants near pleasure boat boarding area were closed. But luckily I found a small store, Kimura store on the coast road(pic.23). I bought a Oirase Yogurt and normal breads there.
After 5km from the store, the time has come to farewell the lake and to start a short hill climbing. It was just 3km but with 200m uphill, so to my tired body with relentless sunshine, it was very tough.
The scene from the observatory was nice(pic.25), but that place was too hot for me. But now there must be just down hill !
As I expected, the downhill continued for 20km. But gradually I had to pedal a bicycle, which made me again tired since the time had passed 9:00AM and the temperature became over 35C.
There was a small ancient stone circle on the way toward Kazuno city. I’m not so fond of archeology but if you are interested in the over 2000 years old culture, this North-East Japan area will be nice for you since it has many such heritages.
I don’t want to remember how I reached the Kazuno station. In the last 15km, there were many up and downs unexpectedly. To my very tired body, its heat and uphill in a normal, no shade road was intolerable.
Somehow I reached the station. I’ve almost got a heat stroke. I bottomed up a cool tea there.
I got on 11:47AM departure train at Kazuno-Hanawa and arrived at Morioka station at 1:56PM. Since I had over 2hrs for my Shinkansen, I took a lunch at Soba station. Morioka is famous for its unique soba culture, ”Wanko-soba“. I was not so hungry, so I didn’t try that. If you want it, it would be better to go inside the city, not near the station.
<Transportation info>
From Tokyo to Shin-Aomori: Around 3hrs20min by Tohoku-Shinkansen \17,670-
From Kazuno-Hanawa to Tokyo in my case: 11:47AM JR Hanawa line, arrival at Morioka station 1:56PM, then transfer Tohoku Shinkansen, around 2hrs30min. TTL \16,880-
<Other spots near my route>
Sukayu hot spring — foot of the Hakkoda mountain
<Connected route>
B-8: Hachimantai Hill climbing
B-11: Aomori to Hirosaki