Chikuma river cycling(E-10)⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ ‘24.17th,Aug
This route E-10 is in Area-E “Chubu-Hokuriku". See Area-E map/ See Japan map
Sight & Entertainment ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Food & Drinks ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Easiness ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ *Opposite direction will be a little tough
Road condition ⭐⭐⭐⭐ *Thanks to cycling road
Safety ⭐⭐⭐ *Other than cycling road, it’s not so safe.
Summer vacation in this year was relatively long and there seemed nothing to do in the last 2 days. So I planned to visit relatively near place for 2 days cycling though it was very hot. It was Nagano prefecture, along Chikuma river.
Since it’s very hot, I planned easier route, so starting at Karuizawa station and taking down hill toward Nagano city seemed nice. It’s only 1 hour by Shinkansen from Tokyo to Karuizawa. So I could start AM8:00 from Karuizawa station(pic.1). Karuizawa is too famous for Japanese as the villa especially in summer season. It was around 23C when I started on R-18 through villa area(pic.2).
It was slightly up hill for several km but when Komoro city was seen ahead(pic.3), the long down hill started. Just cycling on R-18 seemed dull, I took deviated old main road at the point pic.4.
Since this Kitaguni road was the main route from Edo(Tokyo now) to North west region from the past, there were many old houses(pic.5) along the road. It was fun to cycle such non-busy road. Then after crossing the Shinano line railroad toward Chikuma river, I found Unno-juku(pic.6), old post town which can be seen along any old main road.
After enjoying the old atmosphere, I came to the Chikuma river bank(pic.7) finally. There seemed a cycling road along this river but it would appear after passing Ueda city. At Ueda city, I wanted to visit Ueda castle which does not have a main castle tower now but it was owned by very popular feudal lord, Sanada clan, in 16DC civil war era（pic.8). This area was a key location to conquer central Japan so many strong feudal lord targeted this area but Sanada survived for a long period in such era.
The time was still AM10:30, so I continued cycling. When I crossed the Ueda bridge along prefectural R-77 toward south, finally I got on the cycling road along the river(pic.9). But it was not well paved for a while(pic.10). It was after passing a cliff protruding to the river when I found a well paved cycling road(pic.11).
It was very nice cycling road lasting over 25km but I barely met others cycling on this road due to heat. After 8km cycling on this good road, I reached Togura-Kamiyamada hot spring town. It’s the first time to remember this town’s name for this 25 years. I stayed there for 2 days with my wife when she was pregnant for our 1st child. It’s a very old town and I wanted to eat Soba which is popular in this area but there were only few restaurants. I finally found a small restaurant who served very simple soba(pic.12) in the end of this town. It’s very cheap (\900-) and taste was so so..
It was still AM11:30 when I finished lunch and only 30km remained to my final destination, Nagano city. So I decided to drop in a hill top which seemed very famous for a nice terrace view. It is called “Obsute rice terrace" and selected as the 3 best train view in Japan. I didn’t imagine I should do Ave. 10 degree slope hill climbing for 2km. But the scene from the hill top was so nice(pic.13). The Chikuma river turns toward north at this point which I believe the east edge of fossamagna( ref. West edge of fossamagna in my article E-8).
After a steep down hill to the river, again I got on a good cycling road(pic.14). It became very hot, so I don’t remember what I was thinking. And when I gradually came close to Nagano city, I found many fruit trees harvested dry river bed area(pic.15). Nagano prefecture is famous for many fruits like peach and apples.
Finally at the bridge of prefectural R-35, I said farewell to cycling road and turned to North on R-35. Here again there is a famous historical spot, “Kawanakajima ancient battlefield" along this road(pic.16). It was long period battle btw both very famous feudal lords, and here was the toughest battle place among those many battles. I took a long rest here to heal my body.
My final sight seeing spots was Zenkoji(temple), one of the most famous temple in Japan, which has over 1400 years history. I always pray world and Japan’s peace at any temple or shrine where I visit in my cycling trip.
It’s only 2km from this temple to my hotel. I spent much time in each sight seeing spot, so I reached hotel at PM3:45. After taking shower, I went out to search a good tavern.
There were many restaurants and taverns near my hotel (in front of Nagano station), but Nagano is famous for hourse cuisine so I targeted “Banikuman" which opened at PM5:00. I was the first one to enter Banikuman at PM5:00 without booking but only one another person could permitted to enter without booking at PM5:10. It’s very popular, so better to make a reservation in advance.
The taste of raw hourse sashimi was very nice. There are many restaurants who serve hourse sashimi in Tokyo area but I’ve never experienced such fresh meat in Tokyo.
And as usual, after drinking 1st pint of beer, I orderd Japanese sakes. Those brand(pic.19) were unfamilier for me but all were good. Especially I like the final one(the right side one) “Toyoka". But I could not enjoy a chat with master here as usual since it’s a big restaurant and the person beyond counter was a young lady…
<Transpotation info>
From Tokyo to Karuizawa: By Nagano Shinkansen, 1hr 4min. \5,490-
<Connected route>
E-11: Usui pass down hill
E-12: Shinano river cycling