【Day1】Matsushima to Kesennuma(B-4)⭐⭐⭐ ‘22.3rd,Nov
This route B-4 is in Area-B “Tohoku". See Area-B map/See Japan map
Sight & Entertainment ⭐⭐⭐
Foods & Drinks ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Easiness ⭐⭐
Road condition ⭐⭐⭐
Safety ⭐⭐⭐
When I began cycling in 2.5years back, I dreamt cycling here, Matsushima and rias coast and enjoy fresh seafoods, which has come true. I took a paid leave on Friday(3rd,Nov) and I got on the 1st Tohoku bullet train “Hayabusa" from Tokyo station and reached Sendai at AM8:03, 2nd, Nov. Then got on a local train to Matsushima-Kaigan station.
A few hundred meters from the station, there is Entsuin temple which is famous for autumn leaves in early Nov. But I noticed before entering that it was still early(pic.1), so I didn’t go inside since there were over 140km to final destination, Kesennuma city. I heard it became beautiful in next week in this year.
Matsushima is well know as one of the 3 most scenic spots in Japan. The scene of many small islands floating on the sea is spectacular, which was made by coast sinking. We can see a part of that scene from the coast(pic.2,3) but it’s better to see from a higher place, like tall hotel or pleasure boat. If you have time to hang out, I recommend crossing the Fukuura bridge(pic.3) to Fukuura island by walk. Many other islands behind the Fukuura islands can be seen.
As I was a little disappointed by autumn leaves and Matsushima coast, I started long cycling toward North-East. Next destination was Onagawa fishing port to enjoy fresh seafood. The road up to Ishinomaki city was a little narrow but many trucks passed by. From Ishinomaki to Onagawa city, Route-398 was relatively safe and I could see oyster farming which utilized the rias calm coast(pic.4).
I reached at roadside station near the fishing port at AM11:30, where I took a oyster boiled rice set as a lunch at \900-(pic.5). Hiroshima is famous for oyster in Japan(pls refer to my G-2 article) but I prefer this area’s oyster taste which may be due to cooler temperature. As well as seafood restaurants, we can buy fresh seafoods at this roadside station(pic.6).
Now I’ve already cycled 50km but I noticed still there were over 90km to Kesennuma, and there must be many up & downs due to rias coast. I was afraid of getting dark before arriving at hotel.
Soon after resuming cycling, some up & downs appeared. Sometimes the rias coast was visible(pic.7) and sometimes climbed in the mountain area(pic.8). When I came out of mountains to Kitakami river(pic.9), it was PM1:30 and still 70km remained. The road along the river was easy to speed up but again up & down started which made me exhausted. Besides there were no convenience store to take a rest along the road, which was caused by newly built R-45 bypassing those coasts. So I sometimes take a rest at fishing ports(pic.10, 11) w/o eating anything. How desolate area here was!
And I noticed many cautioning board saying that the Tsunami wave came at this level in the mountain which seemed over 30m high from the sea level. Already 10years passed but still many port cities were under ground leveling.
Finally 10km behind the goal, at PM4:15, I saw the sunset(pic.12). There still were up & downs but somehow I reached Kessennuma plaza hotel. After taking a shower, I went to city center where very few people were walking. I chose Danshi-Chubo, Uminoie because it might serve a fresh seafoods as well as a various kinds of local Japanese Sakes. It was right choice. I could enjoy Kesennuma saury, oysters. Kesennuma is famous as saury landing port. And an old guy, a regular customer recommended a raw sea squirt when I ordered 2nd cup of Sake. Honestly I didn’t like its strange salty taste but I was very surprised to its taste which was quite different from what I experienced ever. The sea squirts tend to rot so quickly that people outside this area can’t enjoy its real taste. Now I also strongly recommend trying it when you visit Kesennuma. Summer to early autumn is good season.
When I came out of the restaurant at PM9:00, it was rainy and 5 degree-C which was shivering. The temperature here Tohoku was quite different from Tokyo area. At the hotel, I soaked myself in the salty hot spring.
<Transportation info>
1st train From Tokyo to Matsushimakaigan : AM6:32 Hayabusa No.1 to Sendai, then AM8:15 JR Senseki line to Matsushimakaigan arrival AM8:55. \11,540-
<Other recommendable spots near my route>
<Connected route>