Murakami salmon(E-7)⭐⭐⭐ ‘24.6th,Apr

2024年10月20日

This route E-7 is in Area-E, Chubu-Hokuriku. See Area E map/ See Japan map

More info in Strava

Sight & Entertainment ⭐⭐⭐

Food & Drinks ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Easiness ⭐⭐⭐

Road condition ⭐⭐⭐

Safety ⭐⭐⭐

 Due to winter season and my business, I could not go cycling tour in this year but finally the timing has come. This trip was originally planned in last year November to enjoy famous Murakami salmon but cancelled due to snowing. I chose this route for this year’s first cycling trip.

Nagaoka city is famous for fireworks(pic.1) in summer season. This time also I didn’t have time to enjoy this city and soon started cycling toward North after reaching Nagaoka station at AM7:47.

3. Shinano river & Mt.Yahiko

After 20min, I came to Shinano river bank. This river is the longest river in Japan. I expected some bicycle lane lasted long but it stopped many times.

My first destination was Yahiko Shrine(pic.4). It has over 2000years history and to which emperors and many Japanese leaders dedicated for many centuries.

Since this cycling was after long time, I’ve already felt tired just after 40km but still over 90km remained. In the headwind, I restarted toward North East. The road was flat but sight was dull(pic.5). Due to the headwind, it became PM12:00 when I came to 60km point, so I dropped in the nearest restaurant, Tempura Kosaka. It was not special local food but very nice tempura though I spent almost one hour to finish eating.

After lunch, the route went through Niigata city and I was trapped by signals many times. So when I reached Shinano river estuary to cross the river(pic.7), I was almost exhausted.

8. Kaji river & Bandai Mountains

The road didn’t face the coast, so still the sight was dull but gradually the mountains with snow on the tops came closer(pic.8). Nice spectacle!

Then finally after 100km point, the road came closer to the coast(pic.9, 10).

There were some up and down from this point but I could enjoy ocean view on the left hand side(pic.11) and beautiful mountains on the right hand side(pic.12), though still annoyed by head wind. Finally around PM4:00, I entered Murakami city.

My principal target was salmons shop “Kikkawa“(pic.13). According to local people, a clan of Murakami in Edo era found salmon going upstream only in Murakami’s river in this area and then culture of making preserved salmon started which became famous nationally. The shop opens their workshop for customers(pic.13)

I bought some salmon souvenirs at Kikkawa(pic.14). These are kind of miso pickled preserved salmons. The street had some similar shops and looked traditional old town(pic.15).

15. Murakami old town

After checking in hotel and taking a shower, I visited Japanese traditional restaurant “Chidori(pic.16)". A few days before, I narrowly booked my seat and it was lucky because the restaurant was already full when I entered at PM6:00.

Of course I ordered Murakami salmon. And I came to know there was a rare beef, Murakami beef. So I ordered it(Pic.16). Both dishes were special and very delicious. Of course Murakami’s Japanese Sake ”Taiyo-shuzou(brewery)" and “SimeHarikaku" had sophisticated taste. I knew it that here is Japanese most famous rice production area. Surrounded by local special dishes, I felt this dinner was the best one I ever had in my cycling trip.

As expected in local city, when I came out of Chidori at PM8:30, no one was walking on the street(pic.17). I hope much more people enjoy such delicious food and culture.

Next morning, I took early train from Murakami to Niigata and then changed to Shinkansen toward Tokyo(pic.18).

<Transportation info>

From Tokyo to Nagaoka: Tokyo AM6:08 Toki No.301 → Nagaoka AM7:47

From Murakami to Tokyo: Murakami AM8:18 Inaho No.4 → Niigata AM9:05, Niigata AM10:28 Toki No.316 → Tokyo PM12:28.

<Other spots near my route>

Senami hot spring

<Connected route>

E-6: Naoetsu to Nagaoka

E-12: Shinano river cycling

B-15: Sakata to Murakami cycling