Kisoji to Suwa shrine(E-16)⭐⭐⭐ ‘25.12th,Oct

2025年10月17日2025年10月20日

This route E-16 is in Area-E, “Chubu-hokuriku". See Area-E map/ See Japan map

Sight & Entertainment ⭐⭐⭐

Food & Drinks　⭐⭐⭐

Easiness　⭐⭐⭐

Road conditions　⭐⭐⭐

Safety　⭐⭐⭐

　There were 3 day holidays in this week and I’d planned visiting Shikoku area for a month. And this was the 3rd time of planning but eventually the sudden typhoon destroyed my plan again. I was very much frustrated but I didn’t want to spoil my holiday. So I suddenly decided to go somewhere where there was no typhoon influence. Then I found a central Japan area, Kiso-ji(ancient route among Kiso mountains).

　I started from my home at 4:00AM on Sunday and reached Matsumoto station at 8:37AM. The weather seemed find. Heading toward South along some orchards(pic.2), I came to the valley of Kiso mountains(pic.3).

The R-19 itself was boring but before reaching my first destination, Narai-juku, there were other same kind of Juku(ancient accomodation town) like Niekawa-juku(pic.4). This route was the main route called as “Nakasendo" from Tokyo area to central Japan to Nagoya area in Edo era.

I reached Narai-juku at AM11:00. This town was the most famous and biggest accomodation town in Edo are in this route. There were old buildings remained(pic.5) along the narrow street and you can enjoy the ancient atmosphere.

Though I wanted to take a lunch there but there were only few restraunts which were already occupied by tourists, so I hurried forward. I took a short-cut by using prefectural R-493 which was very dark, narrow and a little steep for a hungry boy. Even after joining R-361(pic.6), main route to Ina city, an up-hill continued. What saved me was a down-hill in a 4km long tunnel.

A long down-hill continued even after the tunnel. Since I was hungry, I stopped my bike at the first restaurant, Gombee mura, soba restaurant. From this point, I could see a wide view of Ina city(pic.8).

Soon after hitting the bottom at Ina city, the up-hill started. The next destination was Takato castle ruin which was selected as one of 100 best castles in Japan. This was a key castle in the civil war era and conquered by the lord Oda in the late 16th century. Basically it’s now famous as a cherry blossoms spot.

There was a short steep hill climbing to reach Takato castle, which was very tough for me who cycled mostly up-hills in this day. But I knew there were still 550m hill climbing from now on. u

In the begginng from Takato castle to Chino city(pic.10), it seemed flat but as I came near to Chino, the slope became steeper. In the final few KMs, I stopped several times to take a short rest where I found some autumn leaves(pic.11) though it’s too early in lower worlds.

After passing the peak, I could see Chino city views from the down slope(pic12).

The Suwa-taisha is located just 1km from the end of down hill. This big shrine is the most important shrine in Japan along with Izumo taisha in Shimane prefecture. When I visited, some of precious buildings were under renovation but it’s worth for me to visit such a sacred place as a Japanese.

My hotel was located a few km away from Suwa taisha and I found Takashima castle which had been build in late 16th century(pic.14). Since it was alreayd late for me, I skipped visiting there.

I took a hotel with hot spring, Kami-suwa hot spring. So after reaching the hotel, I enjoyed the hot spring bath first. Then came out of the hotel to find a restaurant. I found a tavern,"Oban" nearby, which served local cuisines. What was special for me were Jikobo, a slimy mushroom and horse stewed entrails(pic.15-1,-2). Of course there was a local Sake, which was not so famous but not bad taste.

I departed from Kami-suwa station at AM6:54 by express Azusa, No.4 to Tokyo on Monday. Interestingly there was a foot bath in the station(pic.16) which was not open at that early morning.